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I am a bit lazy to write too much this time, but with photos and video I'll let you "feel" how it was! So let's start:

After arriving at night (11.10) the first thing to do was shopping and then finding free space to sleep - both went well. Was surprised that the food quality was like in Bulgaria and all tastes perfect! And the "camping" was in fact graveyard :)

camping graveyard mallorca

After the morning hangover we wanted to visit Porto Colom first. Me and Mario went first to check where is the crag. In the topo all seemed well described and we found some cave in the beginning at the lighthouse area. We easily skipped it saying "yeah sure, this couldn't be the crag - it's insane high". So we went further... After one hour walking and searching it turned out that this is the crag (holy shit). Although I've shown some biceps and power the reality was quite different :)


After some first traverses on the low (~5m) it seemed impossible to try some real deal. Anyway I tried later on looking respectfully downstairs!

first day psicobloc

We tried some traverse later on, where Stefan displayed some technique skills and was fun to try some roof at the beginning, that was not so high above the water :)

After the session it was time to fight the fear of falling :) So after some time staying on the top I finally jumped first, followed by Mario, who though that the foto he made himself of me was fake and that I didn't really jumped from there, but finally tasted the water too :)

mallorca psicobloc jump me

The next day we went to Cala Sa Nau and Stefan displayed also some technique by doing Attack of the Spindly Killer Fish in his flash go and remained dry :) The name of the route is self explaining, and Mario found out why, by falling and experiencing the interaction with the spindly fishes in the water!

We managed to film the route too and afterwards we went to the other side to do some diving and bouldering (yeah).

At the sunset we went to the second sector to check the routes for the next days and it was also really beatiful! (I seldom use that word)

Here I am still with the Psico-feeling in my head, just after doing the traverse downstairs with some "easy moves" on wet holds where you MUST avoid falling, otherwise "playing with fire" would seem a soft sentence for you :) A nice remembrance was while traversing I was doing some cross move with my left arm to reach pocket downstairs and wondered why I was going down slowly and looked my right foot - surprisingly it was about 10 cm above the foothold and stayed there only for decoration... I was literally holding only on my right arm and that's why I was slowly going down :D

In the evening, due to Billy being ill we went to some hostel where we've cooked some meatballs :)
(A hidden photo lies down here too, but ask the admin to show you that one!)

The next day Cala Serena was on the target. It was all joyfull climbing and I managed to do some 6b+ barefoot and then to jump down happy :)

During that time Stefan and Mario did some routes as well :)

I tried there also something harder than the usually tried routes and found myself on technical topout ~15m above water :) Mario wanted to film me scared but could only run camera in photo mode (RTFM), so here is the photo :)

Finally we all watched the camera to see if it is filming and the time trigger made the photo (wasn't aware of that till I came back and checked out the flash) Anyway the photo is superb and casual so there you go:

Anyway, the day wasn't over and we climbed till the sun went down!

Next day we went to check Es Pontas. (of course, don't even think about, that we went to Mallorca without checking the great arc! Firstly however we chilled on some easy and seemingly less explored area near that. We also finally pumped the boat that we took ;-)

Was a long day and I was able to took some shots for fun with the camera (check video) :)

Me and Mario hadn't enough and went to check some traverses on the arc! While approaching I was able to send one boulder onsight!

Felt strong!

However, on the big picture seemed not that strong...

We found our way to the easy section upstairs to become later models for the masses of people photographing the arc ;-)

Two days before flying home Mario got ill and we went to Llombards for a little bit roof climbing :) Defenately a must go place! Kinda tough approach, but superb crag, that was seemingly not so commercial. Despite being dizzy mario checked first the crag and then decided not to risk anymore and took the seat to film a little bit!

Due to that I have some nice pictures from that crag made by him! Yeah!

Here I broke hold while hanging on the roof. I broke that while having the right foot really tight locked in a pocket in the roof. I just wanted to grab the next hold with my left arm and then bang - right arm broke one hold ;-) Imagine what would happened if the hold broke, while my left hand was in the air! MMM! I would fell with broken foot, head down from 10 meters in the water with nice pumped arms ;-) hehe, but don't think about that and enjoy the rest of the photos!

On this one I show that chalking should be done always with tight biceps ;-)

Not a surprise, that I tested the water right after :)

Here some photos that captured the essence!

And yeah, almost at the end there is of course a great postcard we found downtown while searching to buy some beer and something to snack. After looking the postcards in the entrance we just couldn't skip to buy that one! It was manufactured 30 years ago and maybe spent all of that time waiting to be bought! You can see the top card almost lost its colors (greeting cards are scanned but not photoshopped)!!!

Well yeah, now the famous video that I made for loong looong time :) Enjoy the shaky footage and bad edit XD

OK enough, see you next year!


All photos in gallery:


With absolute fail to do anything today in the hot temperatures and with small first ascent of Mono Check 6A in Wartenberg, I'll close the active boulder season this year! I am going to do more boxing and later campus training to be fit for the next winter :)

mono check 6a wartenberg pfalz

Mono Check, 6A Wartenberg / Pfalz

(starts with the undercling to the mono left and then right crimp, then top jug and all without the right arete)

Other older couple boulders to mention:

bleau hook 6b pfalz wartenberg

Bleau Hook, 6A Wartenberg / Pfalz

(topout without left side)

Around 10 people tried to do the first ascent here and it was absolutely dramatic, as the upper part was pure waterfall, maybe because of the fallen tree upstairs. Now there is even possibility to add extension to "in da fingers and dat feet", but I don't care so much about that, as i am not interested so much in traverses and endurance ;-)

warum nicht? 7A pfalz wartenberg

Warum nicht?, 7A Wartenberg / Pfalz

(starts with both crimps in roof, then tops out)


Some info about my Secret Boulder in the Super Classified Spot :P

25 boulder front

Red - I was told it was already climbed. I recorded it previously as "Moosplatte 6C"

Green - 100 Muscle Ups 7A, was too dirty to top out, only mantled and traversed to Moosplatte ;-) Name comes after 100 times of trying before committing myself without pad and spotter :P

Blue *** - 25 XX - 7B :-), story at

Edit: Some repetitors told me that they find the boulder pretty easy for 7B thinking about XX, which I would partially agree as it consists mainly of single cross move to almost undercling (or at least my solution is like that). I find cross moves and underclings very hard, so a combination of both literally adds a lot for me, and I was really honest when grading, thinking it was even harder :)

Black *** - cool project with unstable holds ;-)

So these are the straight ups and now the combis:

25 boulder traverses front

Blue leaves - Moosplatte Variation 7A

Red leaves - 200 Muscle Ups 7A/+, :)

Blue *** - 25 Variation Plus 7B/+, without using the stone at the pink leaves

Green - 25 Variation, with the moosplatte start but using the pink leaves (I know it's stupid, but I firstly climbed it like that)

Pink leaves of grass - The Big Deal 6C, turned out not to be a big deal at all :D

25 boulder traverses back

Black - Project with traversing underneath the stone at left without using the leaves stone under too :) kinda utopical morpho project with loose holds :P


Projects are open! (I though I mentioned that, but after reading the article again, I was actually wrong)